AI Insight
This study developed and tested topical cosmetic formulations (cleansing gel, serum, and face cream) containing apple pomace extract, a by-product of juice production rich in antioxidant compounds. Researchers compared stable and unstable formulation variants stored at different temperatures for 30 days using multiple analytical methods including multiple light scattering, laser diffraction, and optical microscopy. The stable formulations showed negligible changes while unstable variants exhibited marked degradation, with multiple light scattering and laser diffraction proving effective for detecting stability changes in both emulsions and hydrogels, though microscopy was only suitable for emulsions.
Why it matters
This research provides validated methods for testing cosmetic stability and demonstrates how food waste materials can be effectively incorporated into cosmetic products. The findings support the development of sustainable, eco-friendly cosmetics while offering practical guidance for manufacturers on quality control techniques and formulation design.
Understand the Science
by Katarzyna Czerniewicz, Anna Olejnik, Maria Urbańska, Karolina Latanowicz, Justyna Gornowicz-Porowska, Krzysztof Kus
The cosmetic industry has shown a growing interest in incorporating natural ingredients derived from food waste due to their perceived benefits and consumer preference for eco-friendly and sustainable products. Apple pomace, a by-product of apple juice and cider production, is rich in bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, mainly flavonoids and triterpenoids, offering antioxidant, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory benefits. The study aimed to develop and compare the stability of topical formulations containing apple pomace extract, including a cleansing gel, a serum, and a face cream (1%, 3% and 2% w/w extract, respectively), formulated in stable (A) and unstable (B) variants and to assess the effectiveness and efficiency of advanced stability testing methods for cosmetics. The key distinction in cleansing gels was the use of either Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or Cyamopsis Gum Tetragonoloba; in serums, stability depended on xanthan gum or Cyamopsis Gum Tetragonoloba; and for face creams, the critical factor was the incorporation of Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate. Formulations were stored for 30 days at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C and analyzed using multiple light scattering (MLS), laser diffraction (LD) and optical microscopy. MLS confirmed high stability of all A variants, with negligible fluctuations in their transmission/backscattering profiles, whereas B variants exhibited pronounced instability reflected by marked changes in transmission signals (up to 58.6%). Optical microscopy confirmed these findings, with homogeneous droplet distribution in Cream A and heterogeneous coalescence in Cream B. These results demonstrate that MLS and LD were suitable for detecting changes in both emulsions and hydrogels, whereas optical microscopy was effective only for emulsions. The application of these advanced stability measurement techniques can enhance cosmetic formulation design and support sustainable cosmetic development.